The Rules of Shoes

            As I approached the façade of United Nude, a trendy Dutch shoe brand store, the quote by the company’s founder, Rem D Koolhaas, written on the window resonated with me: “We ended up breaking the rules of shoes, not for the sake of breaking them, but simply by not knowing them.” This quote sets the precedent for the experience upon entering the store, where the boundary between shoe and sculpture becomes hazy at times. United Nude offers an interesting twist on the dynamics of shoe fashion, not only in their products but also in the store’s atmospheric ambiance.

            United Nude occupies a special portion of the market, offering shoes that tend to have eccentric characteristics, some more than others. Upon entering the store, a customer would not immediately interpret any stark differences between this shop versus another brand shoe store. The lower level is elegantly and naturally lit with large windows and products sit placed on pedestals and shelves, flaunting themselves to the yearning customer. It is quickly apparent that the style of shoes United Nude trades on is slightly more adventurous, both in color and shape, but it isn’t until ascending to the upper level of displays that the real experience begins.

            Each style of shoe inhabiting one cubby in a long grid of shelves spanning across the entire room, the upper level of United Nude feels almost more gallery-like than a shopping experience. Organized by shoe line and color-likeness, the styles progress as the framework of shoe nooks curve around the room. Additionally, the wall is backlit with a multitude of colored lights, creating a dark, almost nightclub feel as the hues change. On the left end of the wall, the woven, striped, polychromatic booties, flats and tennis shoes reside in harmony and synchrony, all reflecting similar patterns and conventional shoe shapes. As you move from right to left across the room, the shoes become increasingly bold and varied from a traditional shoe. The far right side of the display wall houses designs and styles that gather the most notoriety for the store.

            Unlike any shoes I had seen before in person, the right end of the display wall on the second level contained products that I could only describe as Lady Gaga-esque, and revolutionary in form. Some had metallic geometric blocks for heels, connected to the housing of the shoe only by a small attachment under the weight of the heel. Others exhibited the same height that a typical high heel would give, but instead would be supported by a knob extending from the arch of the foot, connecting with the floor and leaving the back of the foot suspended. One line of heels, as I learned later from the store clerk, is made from a 3D printer, has a splendidly geometric shaping and can be customized to the customer’s foot dimensions and color preferences. This shoe also does not have a conventional high heel, but rather plays with the balance of material and gravity. These shoes in United Nude struck me as more of an art and design collection on display, rather than something practical to wear, but the innovation and audacity the company exudes is pleasing to explore regardless of the purpose.

3D Printed 'Float' Shoe

'Eamz Bliss' Shoe

            I enjoyed the experience of United Nude not only as an observer, but as a customer as well. I tried on a number of shoes, both exotic and usual, to gain more insight on the store’s functionality. While I indulged in the aesthetic appeal to the shoes I sampled, the colored lights that I referred to earlier actually inhibited my experience as a customer. A tension between function and appearance emerges from the vibrantly colored lights in an otherwise dark room. From a visual perspective, the room is fabulously arranged, silhouettes of the peculiarly shaped shoes accented by bright pink and green backdrops. However, when trying to make a purchasing decision, this shadowy and altering color environment significantly impedes visual judgment.

            United Nude does not follow the rules of a shoe store, and neither do its products. Traditional practices and layouts are not observed, and neither are typical dimensions and colors. United Nude, in my experience, is a fantastical gallery of modern sculptures that are used to adorn one’s feet, which also secondarily functions as a consumer store. The brand’s founder not only resulted in breaking the rules of shoes, but entirely reinventing the rules of a shoe store as a whole.