A rising star in the design of architectural heels, Iris van Herpen
launched her eponymous label in 2007 and is known for stretching the limits of
creativity. A graduate of Fashion Design
at the Artez Institute of the Arts Arnhem and former intern at Alexander
McQueen, she confronts the intersections of design and art in a distinct
avant-garde aesthetic. Known for an
extravagant, futuristic style of haute couture, van Herpen’s designs combine
influences of sculpture, materials science and high fashion as a form of
self-expression. She maintains an innovative approach to creation, often
developing completely new materials or using drastically unconventional
materials to make her work. The 2012 Spring-Summer and Autumn-Winter Iris van Herpen collections
at United Nude mark their fifth and sixth successful collaborations
respectively, culminating in the launch of “Fang” and “Thorn”.
According to interviews by van Herpen, “Fang” was inspired by
microscopic organisms and comes in two styles, a lace-up bootie or smooth matte
bootie. The most compelling aspect of the shoe’s design is the ten sharp teeth
poking out beneath each sole. These ten “teeth” altogether carry the body
weight of the wearer. The main colors used in this toe-covering collection are
light, particularly white and beige; the shades of natural fangs found in real
creatures. There is also a smattering of darker colors available such as grey,
copper, and aubergine. “Fang” and its daggered wedge excel in making a
provocative statement while still conveying the characteristic airiness and
elegance of Spring palettes. It successfully channels a wide breadth of
elements in one body of work; intimidating, whimsical, sleek, complex,
gruesome, breathtaking.
Though the inherently strong design of the shoe seems so overbearing and impactful as to exude one
impression, variations of materials, colors, textures and vamp style can create
a drastically different effect. For example, the white matte bootie invokes a
futuristic and intensely modern aesthetic. Hypothetically, if cyborgs were to
wear high heels, they would choose “Fang” in white to compliment their
pristine, angular minimalism. However another style, such as the aubergine
velvet lace-up, conjures visions of a bygone era. At the turn of the century
when women tightened their shoes in the same manner they tightened their
corsets, they were metaphorically constrained in clothing and therefore in
self-expression. In pairing traditional velvet laces with modern black teeth,
van Herpen seems to resolve this struggle in blending inspirations from old and
new. I feel that the arched daggers represent the strength and tenacity of
women across time; fundamental, flexible, sturdy.
Compared to “Fang”, “Thorn” arrives in fewer colors; glossy nude, glossy
black and matte black. Conceptually bizarre and unprecedented in design, this
heel was visibly created with enormous dedication to detail and artistic
vision. Featuring a liquid slow molded
upper, sharp-spiked stones and a 7.5 inch heel with a concealed platform,
“Thorn” showcases an arch of thorns as its focal point. Piercing in from seven
symmetrical locations between the platform and the heel, the spikes are made of
hand cut stones, Labradorite, Tiger’s Eye, Leopard Jaspar and Moss Agate. The
exquisite design also hosts a gripping silhouette of an eight-segment shape
that could be of a leaf, flower, or tree. “Thorn” invokes visions of a
ferocious, dangerous femme fetale, or a dominatrix. Whether or not this was van
Herpen’s intention when creating this style fortunately does not limit its stunning
visual impact.
van Herpen’s 2012 collaborations with United Nude demonstrate her
success in merging architecture, sculpture, art and fashion, thereby pushing
the ontological boundaries of her work. Her innovative techniques incorporate a
sense of wonder and rarity, prioritizing meaningful artistic expression above
economy, comfort and ergonomic design of so-called normal shoes. Neither “Fang”
nor “Thorn” will enable one to cure leprosy or walk long distances. Both shoes
are not practical choices for a hiking trip or long periods of standing. But
musicians such as Bjork and Lady Gaga were on to someone when they became van
Herpen’s clientele. Her aesthetic reflects resourcefulness and recreation,
while embracing obscurity and originality.
No matter how her shoes sell, van Herpen is well on her way to becoming
an icon in the world of design.
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